Evinrude Outboard has no Spark?
The motor is a 1992 Evinrude 48 SPL.
My husband and I took the boat out last weekend and it started up and ran just fine. However, on our way back from fishing, the motor refused to start.
Upon arriving home, we discovered that their is no spark on either cylinder. We ordered the ignition coil for the engine and installed in yesterday, but still no luck.
The ignition parts under the flywheel were replaced in March, so that's probably not the cause (although the ignition was purchased used...)
Are there any electrical tests I can perform on the motor to find out where the problem is? Or does anyone have any advice (based on how suddenly the engine stopped working) on what I should check/replace next?
My husband pointed out a part on the motor - and I found out by looking at the parts manual that it was called a "rectifier" - so I was wondering if that might have something to do with it.
Any suggestions or advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Update:Yes, I used a spark tester that I purchased from Auto Zone. I hooked up one end to the wire and the other end to the plug and set the gap and got no spark. I never thought about checking the kill switch though... That's a great idea - Thanks, I let you know what I find...
Comments
For your spark test, don't use the spark plug -- set the gap on the tester to 7/16", clip it to the engine block and attach the plug lead. The spark plug should be out for this test.
If you replaced "the ignition coil", that was bad since your motor has two ignition coils, one for each cylinder, if you have a no-spark condition, it's unlikely to be the coils.
The neutral safety switch is unrelated to spark -- if the starter motor spins when you turn the key, then it's ok.
Don't try replacing points and condenser, that motor has neither.
1. Rule out the kill circuit by disconnecting the black/yellow kill wire from the power pack, repeat your spark test. If you get spark, troubleshoot the wiring harness, kill switch and keyswitch. The kill wire shortcircuits the powerpack when connected to ground, so you're looking for any accidental contact between it and any good ground. The keyswitch has two "M" terminals ("magneto") that should test positive for continuity only with the key in the "off" position. Kill switch is open to run, closed to kill.
2. The rectifier can fail in a way that grounds out the ignition system. Disconnect the yellow rectifier wires and repeat your test -- if you get spark now, replace the rectifier.
3. Powerpack is the next most likely culprit. It can be tested but that requires specialized test equipment. You could do it if you have a DVA for your multimeter.
These motors have CD ignition systems. They don't like "extraneous spark" that is to say if a battery terminal is loose or you hook up jumper cables and get that hot spark just before it makes the connection. having said that it's also possible that any number of things could be the problem, like the neutral start switch or the "kill switch". A Good service manual has a step by step check of this system, but you might not have access to the tools/meters needed. in fact, how did you check to see if you had spark, pull a plug wire and let it arc to the block? that's one of those "extraneous sparks I was talking about. You need a spark checker from the auto-parts store.....Good Luck!
Replace the coil,points and condensor, they aren't expensive.
challenging subject. check out on to yahoo or google. that will could help!